The blog that started it all off! In 2016 we travelled to Krakow, Poland, before it was trendy! Where better to start this blog than bringing this original post back to life?
Please remember this post was written 5 years ago, so places mentioned may or may not still be open.
On telling people we were going to Poland, we got more than a few strange and surprised looks. People seemed to think Poland was the end of the Earth, not somewhere you went on holiday!! But at the same time several people commented on how much the trip appealed to them, how they wanted to know all about it, and how if we enjoyed it they would be looking into making the same trip. So many people in fact that I had the idea of writing a travel blog, I had enjoyed reading travel blogs when doing my research for our break and felt inspired to share our experiences, in the hope that others would find them interesting and helpful. Krakow is such a beautiful city, and we instantly fell in love with it. Its transport links are the best I have come across, making it so easy to get to, and to travel around. We managed to see and do so much, as well as eating like Kings for three days!!
Getting there
We travelled from London Stansted to Krakow in February 2016. The flights we got were at fantastic times, meaning we landed at 12:10pm on a Wednesday, and left at 9:50pm on the Friday, giving us almost three full days in Krakow. The flight takes a little over 2 hours. Krakow airport is named after Pope John Paul II, and is located 17km West of Krakow City Centre. When we booked our holiday, the company offered us transfers from the airport to city for around £20 each. We chose not to book these, as the airport has recently been refurbished to incorporate a train station, and trains to the City leave about every half hour. On leaving arrivals it is clearly signposted and is about 2 minutes walk. When you get to the station you need to buy a ticket from the machine on the platform before getting on the train. It costs 8 zloty each – about £1.45, and takes about 20 minutes. It could not be easier!!
Where to stay
We stayed in a hotel called the Interhouse Hotel, which is a short tram ride from the city. The tram system is very easy to use, once you get the hang of it! We bought a 24 hour ticket for 15 zloty (£2.70) and you can just hop on and off. The hotel cost us £15 for two nights, and I would compare it to a Premier Inn/Travel Lodge – very clean and modern. It wasn’t a problem staying a tram ride out, however, we did see hotels advertising rooms for 39 zloty per night (£7), such as an Ibis in the City Centre. It would be easier to stay in the centre so I would explore this option if we were to go again.
Food What can I say...the food was just amazing. I didn't know what to expect from the local cuisine, lets just say it doesn't photograph very well!!! We were so impressed with it! I really liked the Pierogi – small Polish dumplings. The Polish grilled sausage was amazing, and a must try. Chimney Cake was one of the best sweet treats I have ever tried! We also found a street food truck selling Oscypek, a smoky cheese served with a sweet cranberry sauce, cooked over an open fire in the street. Again something we've never tasted before but thoroughly enjoyed.
Karczma Podworko Maryny – this is where we had some of the best Polish food – dumplings, sausage. We had 2 main courses, 2 glasses of wine, a pint of lager and a coke for 65 zloty (£11) Moaburger – Big fat burgers and chips. Two doors down from Wodka! Say no more!! Food Truck Square – Hidden away South of the city but you must find it! It is a collection of food trucks on a square...in case the name didn’t give it away! The hardest bit about it is having to choose between the trucks!! We ended up choosing the Big Red Bustaurant – an old style Big Red Bus where you sit on the top deck and eat Polish sausage or Fish and Chips. We paid 30 zloty for 2 meals with soft drinks (£5.40) Also on the Square is the Chimney Cake Bakery, perfect for desert. The hollow cakes are served hot, and the steam comes out the top of it, just like smoke out of a chimney, which is obviously where it gets its name! You can also get them with ice cream in.
Wodka – Ok, so not strictly food, but this place is too cute to miss out! It is a tiny little bar on two storeys, no bigger than my living room! They serve miniature wine glasses of vodka shots – we had 24 (yes, 24) shots between the two of us, and no two were the same flavour! We had a brilliant night here! One not to miss!
Things to do...
Kraków Main Square Krakow was largely untouched during the war and the Main Square – Rynek Glowny – is a large square surrounded with beautiful Medieval buildings, including the Cloth Hall, and St Marys Basilaca church with its imposing twin towers. The square is surrounded by bars and restaurants and has a great atmosphere and some fantastic photo opportunities. It is a must see in sunshine, and in the evening.
Wawel Castle and Cathedral
We took a walk around the picturesque Castle on our first day, and it was really lovely – a must see. We didn't pay anything we just took a look around. The castle is situated on a hill overlooking the river. Don’t miss the bronze dragon who protects the castle...legend has it he breathes fire!
Lost Souls Alley
We loved this! It cost 18 zloty each (approx. £3.25) and only took about 15 minutes but it was brilliant fun! It is a horror escape room - there are a series of rooms, all locked, and you have to crack the code to get out...in pitch darkness. It is like being in a horror movie! We were put in a group with 4 other people, and it became a real bonding exercise, working as a team to find out the way into the next room. It was so good, I'd recommend it to anyone! You also have the option of purchasing the night vision cctv pictures, so you can see yourselves being petrified! This cost 30 zloty between the six of us (about £5.39, or 90p each)
Auschwitz Birkenau What can I say about a place where 1.5 million people were murdered? There is not much I can tell you about the Auschwitz – Birkenau museum – you need to see it for yourself, to appreciate the suffering that took place. So I wont talk about the museum itself, but more some technicalities and advice for visiting. All over Krakow there are companies trying to sell you organised trips, and they are not expensive, around £20, however, we did not do this, we planned our trip ourselves. We booked tickets on the official Auschwitz website. Entrance to the museum is free, however, if you want a tour – and I strongly advise that you do - it costs 40 zloty each (around £7.50) and is a tour with a guide, which lasts around 3 and a half hours. Oświęcim (the Polish name for Auschwitz, and the town name) is about 70km from Krakow. We got the bus there. You can take the train, however, the train station is about a kilometre from the museum, whereas the bus takes you right to the museum car park. The bus station is connected to the train station in Krakow, the bus to Oświęcim leaves from the first floor, every 20 minutes. Just look out for the board which has Oświęcim as the destination and hop on that bus. You pay the driver directly, and just ask for a ticket to Oświęcim (although he will know where you mean if you ask for Auschwitz.) Be sure to only purchase a single ticket, not a return, as it is unlikely you will get on a bus from the same company on the return journey. The bus cost 14 zloty per person, each way (about £2.50) Getting into Auschwitz is a bit like getting through airport security! You cannot take large bags into the museum. The maximum size as quoted by the website is 30x20x10cm. My handbag was questionable, they measured it using a piece of A4 paper! Any bigger and you wouldn't get it in, and would have to check it into a locker. The trip to Auschwitz is a long day. Make sure you have breakfast, and wear comfortable shoes. There are a few small snack huts, which sell crisps, hot dogs, sandwiches and drinks, and a restaurant which sells meals – it is functional but not what you would class as fine dining.
Jewish Quarter
Schindlers Factory
If I am completely honest, we were both disappointed with the Oskar Schindler museum. It is his actual factory, as seen in the film Schindler's List, but the inside of the factory is no longer as it was and is now a museum about the second world war. We didn't feel it was very interesting or well done, and it is not something we would recommend. I suggest you do your own research to see if it is something you want to do. It costs 21 zloty (£3.80) and takes about 90 minutes to get round.
The Ghetto Heroes Square The Ghetto Heroes Square is a very moving memorial, in the square of the Jewish Ghetto. The square was the point of departure from Krakow to various concentration camps. The square now consists of 70 metal chairs. The idea for the memorial came from the furniture which was discarded among the chaos. Each chair represents 1,000 Jews.
Ghetto Wall To the South of the square, on Lwowska Street is the last remaining section of the Ghetto wall. It strikes you when you see it how tall the wall is just how intimidating it must have been when it encased the entire area. Little Father Bernard’s Bridge Lovers Bridge, also called Little Father Bernard's Bridge, is a footbridge over the Vistula River where couples attach padlocks to symbolise their love for one another. If you are visiting as a couple it is really sweet place to visit, to place a padlock on the bridge yourselves, and to read some of the others that people have placed over the years. Ours is about half way down! See if you can find it!
Summary
An amazing city, and definitely one you can visit and explore in a couple of days. The food is fantastic, and whilst I have only visited in the Winter I believe it to be an all year round destination. There is plenty to do even for a longer stay or multiple visits. Cheap food, cheap beer, friendly people - what more could you want? The transport is easy and the main part of the city is quite walkable.
If you have any further questions about travelling to Krakow please do not hesitate to get in touch.
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